Cuffs, Collars & 80s Fashion Renegades

By Andi Allen

If you’re interested in iconic London fashion and how it has shaped so many of our lives,  I’d highly recommend going to see 'Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London' at the Fashion and Textile Museum (ends 6th March 2025).

I had the pleasure of taking my 14-year-old daughter, Yvie, recently, and she absolutely loved it! Experiencing it through her eyes made it even more special. I’ve added the link below so you can check it out for yourself.

Wow! That was the only word I could muster as I wandered through the exhibition. Nostalgia hit me hard—along with a touch of envy. A sliding doors moment: What if…?

Image credit: © Brendan Beirne/Shutterstock – Leigh Bowery and Boy George - promotional image for Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London 

I was particularly drawn to Leigh Bowery, a fellow Aussie (though let’s not dwell on the fact he was from Melbourne!). His story stirred a deep sense of FOMO in me. Back then, I was fascinated by fashion and had dreamed of moving to London. Reading about his journey, I couldn’t help but admire his fearless leap into a world where he just knew he would belong. Hats off to him for making the move—and for his unforgettable impact on fashion and performance.

Of course, I went for the clothes. The multi-coloured suits, the bold shirts, the makeup, the long-plaited strands of hair in wild hues—Boy George and the era’s androgynous brilliance. But, as always, my heart was drawn to the details: the collars and the cuffs.

The Evolution of Cuffs & Collars

Cuffs and collars have long been a defining feature of shirts, evolving through history with both fashion and function in mind. In the 16th and 17th centuries, ruffled collars and lace cuffs were a sign of nobility, exuding extravagance, and status. The 19th century saw the rise of stiff, detachable collars—designed for easy laundering while keeping that crisp, formal look. As styles became more relaxed, the 20th century introduced softer, fused collars, perfect for both business and casual wear. The 80s, of course, took cuffs and collars to the extreme—oversized, exaggerated, boldly patterned, and designed to make a statement. Whether in New Romantic fashion or power suits, these elements were anything but subtle.

The Practical Side of Cuffs & Collars

Beyond style, cuffs and collars serve a practical purpose. Collars help frame the face, adding structure to a shirt and offering protection against the elements (think of a turned-up collar on a chilly day). Cuffs, meanwhile, reinforce the most hardworking part of a shirt—the wrists—where fabric wears down the fastest. By making cuffs a separate, often sturdier part of the garment, shirts last longer and maintain their shape. Plus, let’s not forget their role in personal expression—whether it’s a crisp French cuff for formal occasions or a rolled-up sleeve for a more relaxed look.

So, let’s take a closer look at those cuffs and collars that I saw today - I think they’re fabulous.


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